Isaiah Smith, co-founder of Our Culture Brewing, first encountered fonio at the Craft Brewers Conference in Las Vegas last year, where Brooklyn Brewery‘s Garrett Oliver introduced the grain during a presentation. Smith sampled a beer made with fonio and was immediately intrigued. Later, at an event hosted by the National Black Brewers Association, Smith and Oliver discussed the potential of brewing with fonio, ultimately leading to a collaboration.
“After learning more about the impact of the grain on the local agricultural community in West Africa and the work that Yolele Foods had done, it seemed like a great opportunity to highlight the importance of high-quality ingredients and the stewards of the land that make such amazing beers,” Smith said.
Fonio, an ancient West African grain, has been cultivated for more than 5,000 years and is gaining traction as a viable brewing ingredient. Given its drought-resistant nature and adaptability to poor soil conditions, Smith sees a strong future for fonio in brewing.
“Unfortunately, Ukraine is still an active warzone, and Canada has been experiencing issues with droughts, wildfires, and now potential tariffs. Diversifying our supply chain is critical for the future of the brewing industry,” Smith said. “Fonio does not require irrigation, fertilizers, pesticides, or fungicides, making it an environmentally friendly and sustainable option. It also matures in just six to eight weeks, compared to barley’s 22-week cycle.”
With so few breweries in the U.S. having brewed with fonio commercially, Smith and his team knew they were entering largely uncharted territory. When developing their recipe, they decided to brew a Lager since it was a style that could allow fonio’s flavors and aromas to shine.
“We wanted to showcase fonio front and center without hops or yeast dominating the experience. With Garrett Oliver’s guidance, we ran two small pilot batches before scaling up to commercial production,” Smith said. “Trial and error is key when working with a new ingredient like this. Every brewery’s system is different, so I recommend starting small and scaling up once you have the process dialed in.”
In 2024, Oliver championed the “Brewing for Impact” initiative, where fonio beers were made with Thornbridge from the UK, Omnipollo from Sweden, Carlsberg from Denmark, Russian River from the US, Jing-A from China, and Guinness, alongside Brooklyn Brewery.
Smith said fonio imparts a fruity, wine-like flavor profile with notes reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, including hints of gooseberry, mango, and lychee. Additionally, it provides a silky, rounded mouthfeel. Smith believes fonio could be a substitute for oats or other protein-heavy adjuncts that brewers use to enhance texture.
Despite its many benefits, fonio presents technical challenges when incorporated into the brewing process. Its high protein and beta-glucan content can increase the viscosity of wort, requiring adjustments to the mash process.
“Rice hulls alone may not be enough at concentrations higher than 20% unless you have a mash press,” Smith said. “It also absorbs more water than barley, so water-to-grist ratios need to be adjusted. Since it lacks diastatic power, enzymes must be added if you’re aiming for full conversion.”
Fonio is typically used in its unmalted form. Due to its small size, malting fonio is difficult, but it doesn’t require malting to be used effectively while brewing. When purchased from industry suppliers, fonio is already dehulled and pre-steamed, meaning no milling is required. However, its impact on mash consistency must be considered.
“What surprised us most was how thick the mash became with fonio concentrations above 20%,” Smith said. “We had enough time and tools to adjust, but I recommend using plenty of rice hulls, a higher water-to-grist ratio, and an enzyme to manage beta-glucans.”
Looking ahead, Smith sees fonio as a valuable addition to the brewing industry, both for its sustainability and for the economic impact it can have on West African farming communities.
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“The future of brewing depends on how we innovate. Fonio has the potential to supplement, if not replace, barley in some cases. Its resilience, short production cycle, and sustainability make it an excellent candidate for wider use in beer production,” Smith said. “Beyond that, it also supports economic security for small-hold farmers in West Africa, promoting a more globally connected and responsible brewing industry.”
Smith teamed with Creature Comforts for Fonio Lager, which was released in late February, as part of Creature Comforts’ Brew For One initiative, which benefits a different cause each year. The 2025 recipient is the Michael James Jackson Foundation (MJF), a nonprofit dedicated to funding educational opportunities for Black, Indigenous, and people of color in the brewing and distilling industries. The beer’s proceeds will directly support MJF’s mission to create a more inclusive brewing industry through scholarships and training programs.
“Fonio Lager is more than a beer; it’s a celebration of heritage and ingenuity,” Oliver said in a release. “With every sip, consumers are supporting community, education, and sustainability. Together, we can build a brewing industry that mirrors the vibrant diversity of our world.”
Smith believes that innovation in brewing is most powerful when it extends beyond flavor and into a greater purpose. By embracing fonio, brewers can not only explore new flavors and brewing techniques but also contribute to a more sustainable and inclusive industry.
“The brewing industry thrives on collaboration and knowledge-sharing,” Smith said. “As more brewers experiment with fonio, we’ll continue to learn and refine our approach. The more we embrace diverse ingredients and global traditions, the stronger and more resilient our industry becomes.”
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